Tour de Mont Blanc
Circa: 170KM – 105 miles;

10,000m – 32,800ft elevation gain

June/July 2009

Steve Trafton, Katherine Lawrence and Al Errington

6/24 Katherine and I were to fly BA to London and then to Milan and meet Al for our Tour de Mont Blanc. Katherine was standby on the London flight and got bumped but she insisted that I go on ahead and meet Al and she would find a way to get to Chamonix on her own, via her United Airlines connections. 6/25 I arrived in Milan and met Al at the Straf Hotel across from the Dom. 6/26 Al and I took the train from Milan to Brig Switzerland and then on down the Rhone valley to Martigny. From there we took the little local train over to Chamonix where we expected a message from Katherine saying when she would arrive. Surprise!! She was already there! She had caught a flight from Seattle to Washington DC, stayed the night in Washington DC, then caught a United Flight to Geneva (free for her) and had then taken the train around Lake Geneva to Martigny then on to Chamonix arriving at the Hotel des Alps several hours before Al and I arrived!!

Al and Katherine meet for the first time in Chamonix

6/27 Stage 1: Chamonix – La Flegere – Index – Lac Blanc – Argentiere

6/27 We took the tram from Les Praz to La Flegere (1875m – 6152ft) and then the chairlift up to Index la Gliere (2385m – 7824ft) From the upper Index chairlift station (in light fog) we followed the path in a north-easterly direction, at first slightly downwards over scree and rock covered slopes with snow patches. A short way past a steep rock wall the path curveed down to the right (east) and we crossed over the ridge below the rock face. From here we traversed around through several rock gardens and boulder fields until we arrived at Lac Blanc (2352m – 7717ft). Once at the lake we crossed the stream at its exit and followed the path up to the Refuge. We then took one of several paths above the hut to reach a series of beautiful heather and grass covered shelves higher up. Here we had our choice of spectacular rest spots with grand views down to the lake and across the valley towards the Aiguille Argentiere, Aiguille Verte and the Aiguille du Midi. This was a truly world class spot for our picnic.

After our picnic we walked back down to the Refuge. From there we followed the trail leading on toward Argentiere. This trail started by going steeply down, via small wooden logs bolted to the rock, to reach a shelf with several small lakes (the Lac des Cheserys) then on to intersect with the main trail from the Flegere tram station to Argentiere. This whole grand walk along through heather rock gardens and wildflowers was punctuated by encounters with very hiker friendly ibex that were happy to oblige having their picture taken. A little further down the trail we came to a set of metal ladders attached to a rock wall which we down climbed before continuing onward. After negotiating the “ladders” we made a long descending traverse to the intersection of the trail which leads on down into the village of Argentiere (1251m – 4104ft). While waiting for the bus back down the valley to Chamonix we enjoyed hamburgers and local beer on an outdoor patio while contemplating the next day’s hike.

6/28 Stage 2: Chamonix – La Flegere – Index – Col de la Gliere – Le Brevent – Refuge de Bellachat – Les Houches

6/28 After a quick stop at the bakery for a croissant and coffee we caught the bus to La Praz and took the 9:00a tram to La Flegere (1875m – 6152ft), and then the chairlift back up to Index la Gliere. Here we took the trail, first southwest down from the lift around the foot of the east ridge of the Aiguille de la Gliere and then westerly toward the Col de la Gliere. The last part of the hike was a scramble across a mild cliff face, protected by steel rails and cables, and then on to the Col de la Gliere (2461m – 8074ft). After a short rest we followed the trail on a scenic traverse around the west side of the Aiguille Pourrie to the Col du Cornu (2414m – 7920ft). We then descended through rock gardens, with great views across to the Mont Blanc massive, until we eventually arrived at Le Vioz (2050m – 6726ft), just above the Planpraz tram terminal. We stopped here for a picnic and continued on the trail up to the Col du Brevent (2368m -7769ft) and on up to Le Brevent Tram Station (2524m – 8281ft).

By the time we reached the tram station at Le Brevent Al was in a bad way because of the very stiff Peuterey climbing boots he had brought for the hike. They proved to be so stiff, on the hiking trails, that his feet were rebelling and demanding relief. He decided to take the tram down to Chamonix and buy some new boots and rest his very roughed up feet. Katherine and I continued hiking down through the boulders and heather to the Ref. du Bellachat where we stopped for a cold beer. On leaving the Refuge we dropped, in a series of switch backs, down the steep flank of the Aiguille de Brevent. The trail descended into patches of forest and angled around to the right to the Vouillards ravine which has a stream running through it. This was gained by several metal steps with handrails. Across the stream the path took us into the forest again and along the edge of the Parc Merlet mountain zoo. Soon we came to the turnoff for the trail leading back to Chamonix. This trail mad a long descending traverse (about 7km) through the woods and was pleasant, but after a long day of hiking, seemed never ending. It was late afternoon before we reached Chamonix where we met Al and his new boots. That night we enjoyed the last dinner we would have in Chmaonix until our return at the end of the Tour.

6/29 Stage 3: Les Houches – Col de Tricot – Refuge de Miage – Les Contamines

6/29 After a croissant breakfast we put our street clothes and unneeded equipment in storage at the Hotel des Alps and took a bus south to the village of Les Houches. From the town center we took the tram to Bellvue ((1786m – 5860ft) (9:35a). We crossed the railway tracks behind the upper tram station and followed the trail across the meadow where a path continued down a partly wooded hillside that sweeps down into the Bionnassay valley. Making an undulating traverse of the slope, we passed through a gate and joined a second path coming up from Bionnassay. Marching on we passed through another gate and along an easy contour to a T – junction of paths (25 minutes from Bellvue), where we turned right across an open meadow with great views up to the Glacier de Bionnassay. The way then went onto wooded area and along the lateral moraine of the glacier, and descended among trees to two or three small streams that were crossed on large stones before coming to a suspension bridge across the main drainage for the glacier (1590m – 5217ft).

Once across the bridge the path switch backed uphill through dense brush until coming to another trail junction. The right-hand option went down to Bionnassay and Le Champel but we continued on ahead through the trees toward the Col de Tricot. Once out of the trees the way continued up the grass slopes of the Combe de Tricot dotted with alpenroses, and with views of the Aiguilles du Gouter and Bionassay. After about a mile we came to the Col de Tricot (2120m – 6955ft) (11:00a). The col is a broad grassy saddle on a long ridge spur stretching down from the Aiguille de Bionassay, forming a partition between the valleys of Bionassay to the north and Miage to the south. On the saddle there was a low stone wall for seating and a lot of flies! From the col we could look down to the Chalets de Miage in the valley below. On the south side of the col the trail zigzagged steeply down and some care needed to be exercised or tired ankles may have suffered sprains.

After a descent of about 600m (1969ft) we arrived at the Refuge de Miage (1559m – 5115ft). Here we enjoyed a much deserved lunch of wine and cheese before continuing. From the Refuge the trail crossed the valley before beginning an ascent of about 160m (525ft) to reach the ridge crest of Mont Truc and the Auberge du Truc (1720m – 5643ft). Once past the Auberge it was a pleasant four mile walk along a gradually descending road to Les Contamines (1167m – 3829ft).

6/30 Stage 4: Les Contamines – Col du Bonhomme – Col de la Croix – Refuge du Bonhomme

30 8:55a left Les Contamines started up the road toward the chapel at Notre-Dames de la Gorge. We continued on this road until it took a sharp right turn and crossed the river. At the right hand turn we went straight ahead on a good broad and level path that followed the Bon Nant stream among trees. After about 30 minutes we reached a junction of paths near the chapel of Notre-Dames de la Gorge (1210m – 3970ft). Continuing on, the track steepened as we hiked another mile and a quarter to Refuge du Nant Borrant (1460m – 4790ft) (10:00a – 10:30a). Here we had a quick snack before continuing on a mile and a half to Chalet La Balme (1706m – 5597ft) (11:10a – 11:40a) and another rest stop. From the Chalet La Balme we continued up the valley on a jeep track for about two minutes before turning left and ascending steeply over rough ground with stony zigzags until we reached a bluff with an electricity pylon. A short way past the pylon the trail passed through a small basin known as the Plan Jovet and then climbs through a narrow rocky section to the Plan des Dames were we added a stone to the pile of stones that is said to mark the spot where an English woman perished during a storm.

Once past the Plan des Dames we continued to the head of the valley and up to the Col du Bonhomme (2329m – 7641ft) (1:05p) where there is a small wooden shelter. The col itself is a broad grassy saddle between the Rocher du Bonhomme and Bancs de la Pennaz, with good views down through the Val Montjoie to the north, and Vallon de la Gittaz to the southwest. From the col the trail veered left and began rising once more into a wilder, stonier, area of scree and rocks and a few snow patches. About 45 minutes from the Col du Bonhomme we arrived at the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2483m – 8146ft). Just beyond the Col and slightly down we reached the Refuge du Bonhomme (2443m -8015ft) (2:20p). Here we stopped for the night and were entertained by a nice afternoon thunderstorm. After dinner we were treated to the musical talents of the hut staff.

7/1 Stage 5a: Refuge du Bonhomme – Col des Fours – Refuge Des Mottets – Col de la Seigne – Rifugio Elisabetta

7/1 Got an early start and left the Refuge du Bonhomme at 7:10a. We hiked uphill behind the hut to the Col des Fours (2665m – 8743ft) (7:35a). We passed through the Col and descended on steep slopes of shale and some snow patches towards the basin of Plan des Fours. After losing about 250m (820ft) of height we turned left away from a big shelf, crossed a stream that dropped through a gully, and the descended steeply alongside and then across the Tufs stream and over pasture to the alp buildings of Les Tufs (1993m – 6539ft) (8:45a). Here we picked up and followed a farm road to some farm buildings at the bottom of the valley at La Ville des Glaciers (1789m – 5869ft) (9:15a). Shortly afterward we crossed the Torrent les Glaciers and started a gentle rise which took us on to a converted dairy farm, Refuge des Mottets (1870m – 6135ft) (9:45a).

Stage 5b: Refuge des Mottets – Col de la Seigne – Rifugio Elisabetta

From here the route to the Col de Seigne goes over high pastures and alps along a deeply eroded and braided path. High up it dips into a stream-cut ravine and goes up the final broad slope to the Col de La Seigne (2516m – 8255ft) (11:45a). What a great spot for lunch, standing on the border of France and Italy, looking down into the upper Vallon de la Lee Blanche and Val Veni beyond. From the Col we descended over a high alp with snow patches coming down into the long gentle Vallon de le Lee Blanche. After passing along this valley floor for about a mile and a half we could see Rifugio Elisabetta (2300m – 7546ft) perched on the hillside above us. A short trail took us up through a wildflower speckled hillside to the rifugio (1:10p)

7/2 Stage 6: Rifugio Elisabetta – Courmayeur

7/2 Left Rifugio Elisabetta at 7:30a and followed the farm lane down the lower Vallon de la Lee Blanche alongside the stream that drains the upper valley. The stream gradually expanded and formed the Lac Combal which is created by the lateral moraine wall thrown up by the Glacier de Miage that spills into the valley between a gateway of rock, across the now narrow valley. From the foot of the lake the trail turned and headed steeply up the right hand hillside for about 20 minutes to the Alpe Inferieur de l’Arp Vieille then further uphill to the Alpe Superieur de l’Arp Vieille (2303m – 7556ft) (9:00a). Here a great view across the valley to Glacier de Miage and the complex south face of Mont Blanc. Above the Alpe Superieur the trail rose further to pass above a small pool and then angled leftward up a spur projecting from Mont Favre. Twenty minutes above the Alpe we reached the high point at 2430m (7972ft). Here we paused and took pictures and ate a quick snack before continuing.

The path then sloped down to a stream crossing before rising again to the top of a broad grassy bench then descending, sometimes passing through wooded areas, before reaching the Col Checroui (1956m – 6417ft) (10:30a). At the Col Checroui we went right, around the rifugio, and followed the track that passed to the left of the chairlift and in 30 minutes reached the top station of the Plan Checroui tram (1701m – 5581ft). Here we hoped to take the tram down to Courmayeur. Unfortunately it was closed so we continued on down the road to the village of Dolonne (1210m – 3970ft) and then walked on into Courmayeur (1226m – 4022ft) (11:50a). We were entertained by a big thunderstorm that evening while we ate pizza and Al and I ogled a young temptress being hustled at a nearby table.

7/3 Stage 7: Courmayeur – Rifugio Bonatti

7/3 Left Courmayeur at 8:14a. We began the day’s route in the square in front of the church and walked up the narrow street on its left (between the church and the guides’ office); this street becomes the Strada del Villair. We followed this road out of Courmayeur, alongside gardens and houses, to the upper part of the village of Villair (1327m – 4354ft). We then continued on up the track to the stream crossing where the road curved left. Shortly after this we took a path on the right climbing between trees and eventually rejoining the road. We turned right on the road and followed it for about 50 yards before reaching the TMB marked trail which breaks off to the left and ascends steeply up to the Rifugio Giorgio Bertone (1970m – 6463ft) (9:45a – 10:20a). Here we stopped for cokes and a rest before continuing our ascent up grassy slopes behind the rifugio to the crest of Mont de la Saxe.

From here, and all the way along the crest to Tete de la Tronche, there was a fabulous view of the south wall of the Mont Blanc range from Col de la Seigne (two days behind us) to the Grand Col Ferret (a day and a half ahead). We passed several cattle herds high on the ridge and watched as the farmers herd dogs kept order. After passing just to the right of the Tete Bernarda we continued the traverse and reached the Tete de la Tronche (2584m – 8478ft) at 12:15p and after a short rest descended steeply down to the Col Sapin (2436m – 7992ft) (12:45p).

The Col Sapin was a great spot for a short lunch break amid the wild flowers. After a quick lunch we continued on down from the col into a beautiful little hanging valley before ascending again the east side of the valley to the Pas Entre-Deux-Sauts (2524m – 8281ft) (1:45p). After crossing the pass we descended down into the Vallon de Malatra. The way kept left of the main valley stream and at the end we dropped down a little towards the buildings of Alpe Superior de Malatra and a major junction (2213m – 7260ft). Keeping left of the buildings we descended on a yellow way marked path that soon broke into several strands where the hillside has been cut by cattle. We stayed to the left past some beautiful azalea rock gardens and hiked on to the Rifugio Bonatti (2150m – 7053ft) (3:00p). We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging on grass that surrounded the rifugio and admired the sweeping views of the east side of the Mont Blanc massive.

7/4 Stage 8: Rifugio Bonatti – Grand Col Ferret – La Fouly

7/4 We left Rifugio Bonatti at 7:30a and walked back up the trail to just below the Malatra alp huts and then turned left onto a trail that traversed the grassy boulder strewn hillside and across three or four small streams before reaching several derelict stone buildings a short distance above Arnuva. From there the trail descended down to the car park at Arnuva (1769m – 5804ft) (9:00a). Here we stopped for a short rest before continuing. Beyond Arnuva we followed the gravel road up to the Rifugio Elena (2062m – 6765ft) (9:45a – 10:15a). The rifugio has been built into the hillside for protection against avalanches which claimed the previous hut in the 1950s. From the hut we could look across the valley onto the Glacier de Pre de Bar, which sweeps down from Mount Dolent.

After a short stop at Refugio Elena we continued on up the trail. Two cols Ferret cross the border into Switzerland above and north of the Elena hut. It is the southernmost, and higher of the two, that we would cross. Behind the hut the path rose steeply and passed a gorge of black schist, then in a series of switchbacks took us higher near the ridge crest before turning left and climbing steeply toward the pass. We arrived at the Grand Col Ferret (2537m – 8323ft) at 11:15a. Here we had lunch and enjoyed one of the best views of the trip. From the Col de la Signe, now three and half days behind, down into the Swiss Val Ferret. We descended over open slopes with numerous snow patches down to the summer dairy farm of La Peulla (2071m – 6795ft) (12:45p).

From here we followed a farm track down into the Val Ferret and the little hamlet of Ferret (1705m – 5594ft). From here Katherine and I followed a path down the left side of the stream eventually coming back to a paved road that led on into the town of La Fouly (1610m – 5282ft) (2:45p). Al caught up with us about a half hour later and we enjoyed beer and schnitzel on the patio of our hotel while being entertained by a bad piano player/singer.

7/5 Stage 9: La Fouly – Champex –Arpette

7/5 We left La Fouly at 7:30a and crossed over the river and then turned right onto a path that followed the river downstream coming to the little village of Prayon at 8:05a. From there we continued down to the village of Praz de Fort arriving at 10:30a. We pressed on to Issert (1055m – 3461ft) (11:00a). We had refreshments at a roadside bar and then started for Champex. Just outside Isset we turned left up a road past some farms and then picked up the trail which climbed steeply up the hillside and then traversed on around and up into Champex (1466m – 4810ft) (12:30p) Here we regrouped and had a couple of beers and started on up the trail to Relais D’ Arpette (1627m -5338ft) (2:45p). We got a room for the night and enjoyed a big meal on the patio contemplating our hike up and over the Fenetre d’Arpette the next day.

7/6 Stage 10: Arpette – Fenetre D’Arpette – Col de la Forclaz

7/6 We left in a drizzling rain at 7:40a the next morning and hiked up the Val d’ Arpette following the stream for several miles before angling right and then over steeper ground through boulders and heather slopes as we gained altitude.. The last half mile to the pass was steep, boulder hopping terrain, before the last short steep scramble up to the Fenetre D’Arpette (2665m – 8743ft) (10:15a – 11:00a). Here we took a well-deserved rest before starting down the other side. The trail descended over steep boulders and heather slopes down into the valley below while skirting near the Trient Glacier. At the bottom of the slope we reached the Chalet De Glacier (1583m – 5194ft) ((12:10p.) Here we enjoyed a snack before heading along a smooth, nearly level track to the Col de la Forclaz. (1526m – 5006ft) (1:40p). We got rooms at the Hotel Du Col De La Forclaz and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the patio and enjoying the view and drinking beer while our clothes dried in the basement of the hotel. While we rested a number of Morgans on an outing through the mountains stopped at the hotel and I spent some time talking cars with the owners.

7/7 Stage 11: Col de la Forclaz – Col de Balme – Argentiere

7/7 We left about 7:30a and hiked steeply down into the valley (1325m – 4347ft) just above Tient and then up along a stream to where the trail headed off into the woods and began ascending via numerous switchbacks above the l’Arve river to the Col de Balme. Around 9:00a it started raining and sleeting heavily and we arrived wet and cold at the Refuge du col de Balme at 9:45a (2191m – 7188ft). Not a very friendly place, but dry! We waited a little while for the weather to improve, but it didn’t so we left and hiked on down and over to the chair lift for a cold ride down to Le Tour (1453m – 4767ft) and then on the Argentiere were we caught a bus back to Chamonix.