The next morning I left the Berggasthaus Golderli at 7:15 and walked down into Griesalp. A signpost near the Berggasthaus Griesalp pointed out the start of the trail which climbed up out of the valley on an old farm road through woodland. In a little while the trail passed Untere Bunalp (ca. 5545 feet) and then continued up to another shelf and pastureland before coming to Ober Bunalp (ca. 6035 feet). From there I kept along the road for a few more minutes and then cut off to the right over rough pastureland to a steep slope of moraine deposits. I worked my up over slippery black grit and clay on a steep slope that was also eroded heavily by rain. I gained altitude quickly until the moraine ended on a rock ridge. The trail then made a short rising traverse around the ridge before the ascent steepened again at last coming to a long section of fixed cables and steep timber steps which rose sharply before emerging at the Hohturli (10:35; ca. 9110 feet). From the pass I walked up a short distance to the Blumlisalphutte (10:40; ca. 9315 feet). Here I rested and enjoyed the view of the Blumlisalp (ca. 12,018 feet) which rose above the hut, to the south, and back across to one last view of the Wetterhorn and Schilthorn to the northeast.
After a quick snack at the Blumlisalphutte I began the descent toward Kandersteg. The way down to Kandersteg started off as a well graded path which switch backed down over broad slopes of scree, then followed a balcony with a spectacular view of hanging glaciers. After descending still further I came onto the crest of a moraine wall, before veering to the right into a rough bowl of pastureland littered with rocks and boulders, at last coming to the huts of Ober Bergli (12:35; ca. 6471 feet) where I stopped for some soup and a beer.
Shortly after Ober Bergli I came to the edge of a cliff overlooking the Oeschinensee. Here I descended a rocky stairway with fixed cables and at the foot of this descent came to Unter Bergli (ca. 5795 feet). From here I went right, and contoured high around the north shore of the lake.
Toward the western end of the lake the trail once again descended to the lakeshore itself. A little further on I came to Oeschinensee (ca. 5225 feet). From here it was a short hike across pastureland to the tram station and a gondola ride down to Kandersteg (3:00: ca. 3860 feet). I found lodging at a grand old hotel, the Ritter Victoria and settled in just as the skies once again turned threatening and the rains started.
Kandersteg marked the end of the traverse for 2005 as rain continued for several more days and so I vowed to return the next year to finish the route.
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- A convention of pigs at Untere Bunalp
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- High on the trail near the Hohturli with the Blumlisalp in the clouds
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- Looking east toward the Wetterhorn in the background
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- Signpost marking the Hohturli
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- Blumlisalphutte above the Hohturli
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- Looking west from the Hohturli above the cloud cover
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- The slopes leading down from the Hohturli to the Oeschinensee
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- Looking back up the trail toward the Hohturli
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- My repaired alpenstock during a rest above the Oeschinensee
